I
was just sitting there, finding a quiet corner out of reach of the
persistent wind and being steadily dribbled on by a half-hearted rain
shower (it looked great as it swept through in trailing curtains over
the hills, just not so much to be in).
Rain |
Listening
to a spring morning. skylarks, skylarks, skylarks. Every field, it
seemed, sprouted larks (not soaring as high as less windswept
southern cousins). And curlews. The combination of lark-song and
curlew piping could have been all the enchantment I needed.
But
I sat there with the broch behind me and the fields beyond that and
the swell and sigh of Eynhallow Sound in front of me. It took a few
minutes for my eyes to understand those patterns of grey and silver
and breaking white, and the shifting shadows that told the story of
the dangerous currents of the Sound. I had some binoculars but they
were hardly needed.
Razorbill |
Lying
low and barrelling their determined course through the waves, black
scoters ploughed across the scene which suddenly exploded into life.
There were birds everywhere. Goosanders, as low in the water as the
scoters but sleek arrows to the ducks’ solidity. Eiders on the
rocks, and cormorants. They always sound like they’re squabbling
but maybe all those wheeling terns are just talking very fast. There
is a gull. And another. No, I’m no birder. That is another gull,
but a different one. And that
is a fulmar. Gliding, sliding along the wind with barely a wingbeat
between Midhowe Broch and this Gurness edge. A skua on patrol, dark
wings and dangerous thoughts. And two martins, new come from those
long migrations, blown sideways into the shelter behind the broch.
The
sea, grey, racing, laughs itself into waves and breaks; but turn a
corner and there is peace and the bay is still with pale turquoise
clear water over graceful sea wrack meadows. And everywhere, always,
watching everything; dark eyes, bobbing heads and the sudden roll and
splash of a fat body as the seals invite us to play.
In
10 minutes of sitting there on a stone, I felt that i had seen more
wildlife than in a day’s walk at home. Is this what we’ve lost
from the southern counties? Maybe not those actual birds but that
richness of life, that sense of a world bubbling with activity at
every level, at every intersection of a habitat…..
Broch
of Gurness, 8th May 2016
Raven at the Brough of Birsay |
Pictures: no, I didn't take any when i was just enjoying the birds, so these come from before and then later in the day when it sort of stopped raining for a bit
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